How to install a mesh atomizer?

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How to install a mesh atomizer?

Mesajde vaping » Mar Iul 26, 2022 9:28 am

For our reconstructable "genesis" atomizers, there are not only fiber or cotton assemblies. There are also mesh mounts. These arrangements have been around for a long time. Long before they were dethroned by Japanese Cotton and other Fiber Freaks.
We talk about genesis assembly when the resistors are at the top of the atomizer. If I remember correctly, they are called that in memory of one of the first atomizers called the Genesis. So no relation to the former group of Phil Collins and Peter Gabriel.
Mesh?
However, the mesh assemblies have certain qualities in terms of the rendering of flavors thanks to an excellent capillarity of the mesh which ensures good irrigation of the liquid towards the coil. Some vapers swear by mesh. And the lifespan of a coil is much higher than that of the fiber.
The mesh is a wire mesh sheet like a micro mosquito net. There are different sheet thicknesses. Size 200 is the thinnest.
But mesh assemblies suffer from a bad reputation: they are difficult to achieve. Certainly the first difficulty is to avoid hot spots. That is to say when the wire does not redden linearly all along the cable but at one or two points. And if the cable heats up too much, in these places, it breaks.
Mounting method: preparation of the mesh
But I found on the "big forum" an assembly method that fully satisfies me and practically made me rediscover my atos genesis. May its author forgive me if I forgot his nickname. Mea culpa. I make my assemblies in mono coil on Aga T2 of UD and on Origen V2 of Norbert for the dual coil.
For this method I use a 0.25 mm jig to make my turns of kanthal. Kanthal in 0.30 mm.
The template is used to make the assembly in micro coil. Generally we make a macro coil with the mesh but I find it difficult and the results obtained, for my assemblies, were hazardous. Not being a genesis champion, I found this option easier.
Beforehand we cut one (or two sheets if you want a dual coil) of mesh with a width of 2 cm. For the height you need a length much higher than the atomizer. For example for the Origen, 2 cm will suffice. For the Aga T2 from Youde, I cut out 5 cm. Then I roll them up as thinly, as tightly as possible.
Imagine
vape manufacturer
So much for the principle, the number of whorls that I carry out is there only as an example. Nothing prevents you from raising or lowering the ohm value of your resistance. I'm not a fan of low resistances. What I'm looking for above all is a good rendering of the flavors of my liquids.
I only oxidize the mesh at the part that will be in contact with the coils. The bottom of the mesh will not be deformed by the flame and will retain its capillarity. Not everyone does it that way, I agree.
In double coil, for the Origen, I do 5 turns. I get two resistors which will give me 0.7 Ω in the end.
In mono, for the AGA T2, 8 turns gives me 1.2 Ω.
Once the coils are made, they are mounted on the ato. Happens the most difficult: threading the mesh straws in the coil. If the mesh is tight, this shouldn't be a problem.
The switch test arrives. By short pressures, I send the current in the coil(s). If I have a hot spot, which does not fail to happen, I tighten the turns of my coil with pliers. The current arrives gradually, slowly but surely to go around the mesh by giving small impulses with the mod.
little tip
It's almost ready but, little trick, I wedge a little cotton between the coil and the pole of the ato. This cotton will ensure good fluid supply. It's a small reserve that will avoid dry hits as much as possible. All that remains is to prime the resistors with liquid and fill the tank.
This method does not claim to be the best, but it works well for me. No dry hits and a pretty great rendering of flavors. If you have any others, go ahead with your comments.
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